My journey from Innsbruck to Lermoos took us over the stunning Fernpass, an old mountain pass that was first opened up because of the salt trade. With this trade came wealth and in 1560 the first stone of the “Alte Post”or post station was laid. Over the years the property changed hands and usage several times, until in 1986 the Dengg family took control of the buildings. Over the years the hotel has seen various renovations, until in 2010 the Hotel Post celebrated its 450th year in existence. Now with 59 suites and extensive space in the lounge, dining room and spa this is a classic Austrian hotel almost on a par with the palace hotels found in Switzerland. This is the type of classic hotel my parents used to bring us children back in the 70s, it is a format that just works and it may have had a few tweaks over the years with various interior design changes or the growth of the wellness spa, but this classic Austrian hotel is the type of place that anyone can visit and feel totally welcome.
I immediately relaxed as I stepped across the threshold. Within no time at all I was exploring my vast suite, where I discovered the bathroom had a rather unusual window that opened up onto the room, those crazy Austrians! The view from my suite was spectacular, it did not look across to the famous Zugspitze, but across the flat valley to the… dare I say it, possibly the more attractive Sonnenspitze Mountain. The balcony was a place that I could quite happily sit and soak up the view especially on such a sunny day. Once unpacked and settled in, there was time to explore the town of Lermoos before heading down to the 2000m² Post Alpin SPA. There are many things that Austrians do well, and one of them certainly is the wellness spa. With nine different saunas and baths I was in my element; it has now become a ritual to jump between the saunas, steam rooms and the cold plunge pools, of which the cold pool at The Post was a delight. I will be leaving with a much stronger immune system thanks to the cold water therapy. The Post also has a newly built giant sauna that probably fits about 60 people with spectacular views of the Zugspitze, an infrared cabin to fix one’s ailments, outdoor salt water pool and relaxation area, certainly worth experiencing.
After a long day’s travel or a very hard day skiing, a good meal is often on one’s mind. This is where The Post excels. The gourmet restaurant is actually quite large and can seat many guests, but it somehow does not feel excessively big due to the various dining areas, which makes for a cosy atmosphere. This is a very well run ship. The staff are there for your every whim and are attentive to the nth degree. My waitress, Pia knew who I was before I had arrived and showed me to my table and made sure the evening ran as smoothly as possible. With several courses to the evening menu, I would start the evening with such delights as Yellowfin tuna with avocado, basil and pepper… a fun dish that initially looked like an assortment of sweets with its green avocado mousse and red succulent tuna; a truly fresh, light and inventive dish.
After the initial tantalizing first course, it was on to the winter warming soups, consommes and veloutes. From the sour cream veloute with curd cheese fritters to the bright green cream of rocket salad; the soups were smooth, rich with flavour and seemed to be full of wholesome goodness. It was as if Grandma had been kidnapped and enrolled into the kitchen staff of the Hotel Post, all to make her healthiest soups. Two courses down and it was my favourite time of the evening, when one gets to stretch ones legs and peruse the expansive Austrian salad buffet. With everything one would want from a healthy salad, it was difficult to not overload one’s plate thus leaving no space for the main course, oh and one would certainly want to leave space for the main courses at the Hotel Post. Their Duck was red and succulent like venison served with spiced red cabbage, cream of chestnut and chervil whilst the flank steak was a fabulous cut served with charcoal smoked mayonnaise, duchess potatoes and the blackest trumpet mushrooms. Of course it goes without saying that the large cheese platter course would certainly satisfy my lust for cheese. The desserts were extremely inventive with the likes of potato pasta with poppy seed and plum-stew ice cream, a stodgy Alpine dessert at its best. ‘Dessert buffet’ evening was not to be missed either, with an array of chocolate mousses, tiramisu, panna cotta, fresh crepes and my favourite chocolate creme brûlée; just make sure you ski it all off the next day.
The Hotel Post in Lermoos is Austrian hospitality at its best, from the waiting staff and the chefs in the restaurant to the ladies at reception who helped me organise another night in Lermoos when my taxi could not get me to my flight on time . . . What a travesty to be stuck in Lermoos for another 24 hours! But The Post has managed to finely balance outstanding service and gourmet cuisine with a hotel that makes one feel at home as soon as entering the premises. To top it all, when the architects planned the first bricks and mortar 450 years ago they chose possibly the best position in the whole of the Zugsptiz Arena; you will never tire of the stunning views as the weather webs and wanes, continuously painting new vistas to nurture the soul.