The Gallivant is the perfect hideaway for a cool beach break by Camber Sands on the south coast. The hotel is beachy-chic and sits just behind the sand dunes that lead onto the golden 5-mile swathe in East Sussex, famous for its soft sand, kitesurfing and proximity to the ridiculously picturesque town of Rye. Previously a 1960s motel, The Gallivant is now stylish and boutique, set back from the beach on the winding coastal road. The drive across the Romney marshes to reach this peaceful getaway makes it feel far more secluded and remote than it is, just a few hours by car from London (or 7 minutes from the nearest train station, Rye).
Itβs arguably one of the best beaches in the UK (and my personal favourite). On warm weekends mid summer crowds flock to swim and sunbathe in a setting thatβs more French beach than English seaside. But visit on a weekday or out of season and youβll have it pretty much to yourself, save a few dogs, their walkers and some colourful kites flying ahead of the brave boarders out on the grey sea. The Gallivant is the place not just to sleep down here but also eat, and very well. Itβs a quirky one-storey hotel with 20 rooms, though I wouldnβt have even guessed it had 20, in the sleepy village of Camber that was originally just a handful of fishing dwellings. The interior is limed wood, driftwood, bleached wood, wood panelling with marble and lots of comfortable furnishings. Itβs classy, cool and completely serene with sandy shades, soft greens and lots of plants. To keep it really peaceful, itβs a children-free hotel, though you can bring the dog along (and Camber Sands is open to our furry friends year-round).
I stayed in the Luxury Garden room, with French windows that opened up onto a sweet private deck and into the coastal gardens. The bed is enormous, the free-standing, roll-top bath luxurious over the autumnal weekend visit and the βmonsoonβ shower ideal following a cold sea swim. Thereβs a rolling wall between the bedroom and bathroom to open up the space for social baths, even more perfect, with a bottle of English sparkling on ice. Englandβs finest Gusbourne Estate is local to The Gallivant, just 10 miles away and was the first of very many fine bubbles, wine and cocktails we were to enjoy during the stay. The bedroom is impeccably decorated and the bathroom stocked with locally made, organic products. Itβs certainly a place concerned with sourcing and celebrating everything local, from beauty to food to decoration, though inspiration points to The Hamptons shabby-chic, implied by some of the room names.
Last summer a new chef stepped up to plate, though the Gallivant has for a while been considered a go-to restaurant in the area. The menu is focussed around being fresh, local and healthy with lots of seafood and fish. It doesnβt have to travel far; Newhaven black bream, Hastings hake and mackerel, lobster from Dungeness, Rye Bay Dover Sole. I had Oysters Rockefeller on the shell, buttered, herbed, crusted β divine. There is, of course, always Romney Marsh lamb on the menu, a much sought after lamb for the unique environment in which the animals are raised on the salt marshes. The meat is tender with little fat and flavoured with herbs and grasses like samphire, sorrel and sea lavender giving a sweet flavour to the lamb. I digressβ¦ In short, itβs delicious and The Gallivant serves it up beautifully. The veggies are mostly local, too. Right now, Sussex penny bun mushrooms, local spuds, dulse for the butter. Puds are the best of the British classics, tastefully plated and incredibly hard to choose between.
The icing on The Gallivant cake is the free daily yoga and pilates sessions held at 8am and 4pm each day, on the beach if the weather is fine. Ours was a moody, grey afternoon so we took a yoga class in the Summer House with Katie, who was brilliant. She offered us the option of a restorative class or a more dynamic flow; we chose the latter, followed it up with a plunge in English Channel at high tide before heading in to warm up by the fire with a glass of Chapel Down. There really couldnβt be a better combo of activities nor a better setting for it. The Gallivant also has a mini spa which is located in a completely charming beach hut in the garden. Massages, facials, manicures and pedicures are on offer, meaning thereβs even less reason to leave the little haven.
The dining room, the private dining room, the sitting room and snug are fashionably decorated and are warm and inviting. Fishermans lamps, framed vintage swimming costumes, driftwood and topical marine books decorate every room of the hotel, along with other non-nautical paraphernalia for everyone to enjoy β magazines, board games, more booksβ¦ There are experiences to join such as tours, workshops and meditations. And we havenβt even stepped outside of the hotel yet. Climb over the dunes and turn left for a beautiful walk along the miles-long sandy beach. This way youβll find the kitesurfers and windsurfers. Turn right and after 30 minutes-or-so walking youβll reach the medieval town of Rye with its winding, cobbled lanes crammed with listed buildings, quaint pubs and even a castle. Iβd recommend the ancient inns of The Mermaid and The Olde Bell, which are said to be connected by a secret passageway.
Iβm raring to get back to the restaurant, and soon. Recently whelk fritters, pickled mussels, curried monkfish and braised cuttlefish with nduja have graced the menu. Itβs inventive and inspiring β (I must do more with whatβs local at home) β and judging by how good everything tasted on my last visit, Iβll go back with an open mind, an excited palate and high hopes.
After dinner the bar beckons, low-lit by lamps and romantic, intimate on a blustery, dark evening. The barman was quite the pro and, while concocting a damn good Manhattan using a special American bourbon Blantonβs, shared some invaluable cocktail mixing secrets. I didnβt actually take a look at the cocktail menu, though Iβm sure thereβs a decent one, as we chatted booze and he riffed on a few classics. The Gallivantβs wine list has to have a mention. There are more English wines on the menu here than anywhere in the world. βAnd so there should beβ, they say, βWe are in the heart of English wine countryβ. It kicks off with a description of the 13 English wine estates that have been carefully picked and the distance from where the Gallivant is to each winery. English βchampagnesβ, both white and pink, make up the sparkling list (no French bubbles here) followed by six whites, two rosΓ©s and four reds, all English. Thereβs an option to do tastings, either by selecting three small glasses to enjoy by yourself at the bar or at one of the hotelβs tasting events held once or twice a week. Then again, guests can enjoy a glass of English bubbles at 5pm on the house every afternoon at The Gallivantβs cocktail hour. There are also a couple of English pudding wines to try (and an extensive international wine list if you want to spoil the fun!).
Prices this autumn start at Β£313 per night for two sharing. It always includes breakfast (which I canβt believe I didnβt mention until now but is another of the hotelβs stand-out attributes), a three-course dinner, morning elevenses, English wine at 5pm and free classes. Itβs a children-free hotel and guests must be older than 16 years. Itβs also worth noting that on weekends thereβs a two-night minimum stay.
The Gallivant
New Lydd Road
Camber
East Sussex
TN31 7RB