Iβm up. On a wave. Actually surfing, and itβs epic. Weβre the only ones in the water, but itβs a party(- of two) wave as I pop up and make a turn to follow Marina of The Sea Retreat β whoβs off already, trimming and carving β along this left break. Tentatively, I turn the board down the wave again, desperate not to shoot forward into the white water but to avoid riding over the back of this little Spanish swell.
FINALLY! βHola from the olaβ.
Itβs been a long time coming. Iβm only on hour two with Marina, but itβs two decades since I first gave surfing a crack (and thereβs been a helluva lot of sessions betweenβ¦). I just catch sight of cameraman Callum in time, submerged in the water, swerve, and pull out not one but two shakas (βcos Iβm a surfer now baby!), no longer rigid with concentration, or frustration; How good and easy it all feels when youβre up and doing it! Of course, I lose it and crash out, caught on camera. But I was offβ¦
The epic, unmissable, Spanish surf adventure
Iβve come to an unspoiled stretch of Spainβs Costa de la Luz to The Sea Retreat for surf camp. Itβs 30 October (weβre well into βoff-seasonβ) and 25Β°C at El Palmar β a long, golden-sand beach on the southernmost tip of Spain, 50 kilometres from Tarifa (where you can ferry to Moroccoβs Tangier).
This is Andalusia, and possibly my favourite place on Earth. Introduced years ago to the hilltop town of Vejer de la Frontera, just a few kilometres away, thatβs as epic and picturesque as it gets, its winding streets packed with tapas bars, boutiques, churches, ancient architecture recalling Moorish rule and even Roman ruins. Vejerβs beauty and popularity (itβs recently found its full potential) contrast wonderfully to El Palmarβs wild and undeveloped nature (at least for now); theyβre the perfect combo.
Having flown to Seville, our group of three took the train to San Fernando-Bahia Sur and got a lift with Callum, a pro sports photographer and one half of The Sea Retreat, the last 40km to base. On the drive to the surf house, I bore him with my surfing woes as an eternal beginner. βAh, cβmon, weβre all just beginners out thereβ, says Callum humbly, in that way that sportspeople in extreme environments do in reverence to the epic power of Mother Nature. Because of course, heβs no beginnerβ¦
But itβs Callumβs partner, Marina, whoβs the surf instructor β Seville-born, El-Palmar-summer-raised, she knows the waves round here like the back of her hand. To cut to the chase, Marina single-handedly got me surfing. Patient, encouraging and, most importantly, fun, Marina managed our small group of varying abilities seamlessly. Vamos! she shouts as we paddle in together for in-motion tutorials. Or, sitting behind where the epic waves break, taking a breather, we learn the science of waves and, ultimately, which to pick, in the worldβs most beautiful classroom. Energetic and unjaded, Marina is dedicated to my cause; we surfed in the morning and at sunset, and in between when I askedβ¦
Inside the epic experience at The Sea Retreat
Along El Palmarβs beachfront a few campervans are parked up, and one or two beach bar-restaurants are open, but the Chiringuitos (make-shift Spanish beach bars) that sit on the sand during high season are packed away, and itβs otherwise empty except for a few dog walkers. Between surf sessions, we hang out at The Sea Retreat, a simple bungalow sleeping eight located just off the beach with hammocks in the garden and an outside kitchen, where we learn to cook an epic paella with the chef. There are plans to develop luxury yurt accommodation with barbecue pits in beautiful gardens.
Dawn walks to Trafalgar lighthouse, horse riding at dusk, scouting out the local restaurant open that day β low-season thereβs always one or two, if you know where to look β to get our fill of native bluefin tuna, fill up the days beside surfing. Sea and surf aside, youβd come for the food alone. Most do. At tapas bars we eat albondigas, Iberian ham, gambas, salmorejo and boquerones.
At ventas β humble roadside cafes β itβs meatballs, octopus salad, stew or tortilla, for just a few Euros. There are restaurants dedicated to tuna, served all ways, but even at the beach bars youβll get it sashimi-style or tartare, the ventresca (tuna belly) seared, grilled, fried, or sauteed with onions, made into albondigas or tacos. And itβll all be the best youβve ever hadβ¦ Thatβs right, the area is famous for tuna, a delicacy, caught in the Almadraba method, and that which isnβt eaten locally is mostly shipped to Japan, where itβs highly prized for sushi.
The weather in southern Spain and El Palmar is best on either side of summer. We had 24Β°C on 1 November, pure sunshine and a cool offshore breeze making for beautiful, epic, surfing waves. Swells grow from 3ft (1m) in July-August to 6ft (2m) waves in January-February β making October optimal for me.
The waterβs still at its warmest (though a wetsuit is a must), the air temp is of a cool summer day, and itβs good groundswells and consistent peaks from here on out. And on this 11-kilometre stretch that is El Palmar, youβll no doubt have all the waves to yourself. Itβs pretty much heaven, especially when I think about what Iβve left at home β a dark, wet London at S.A.D. primetime.
The Sea Retreat runs off-season camps, from September through June. Offering six-night trips fromΒ β¬850pp, full-board (though B&B is available for β¬100 per night), including surf lessons, surfboards and wetsuits, itβs the best value surfing Iβve had. And this time Iβm ACTUALLY SURFING so Iβm double quids in. Itβs worth getting in touch with Callum and Marina if you fancy a shorter or longer stay, are visiting as a family, or want to discuss accommodation options.
Contact: [email protected]
Website: thesearetreat.co.uk
How to get there: Return flights to Seville cost from Β£60. The closest train station to The Sea Retreat is San Fernando-Bahia Sur (return tickets under β¬20), an easy journey from Seville.
