And, indeed, some whiskey. Β Is that allowed, do you think? As we appear to have relaxed the rules on the food β haggis pakoras anyone? β perhaps we should steer away from Scotland on the dram front?
I agree with the sentiment that thereβs a whisky for everybody. Yes, even you, currently pulling a face at the idea. Thereβs such wonderful variety in the world of βuisce beathaβ that its translation β water of life β is no idle boast and, if trying something outside of Scotland starts you on a path of discovery, that canβt be bad, right?
The expert roundup
Weβve taken a look at a few things out there β hey, itβs not the first time Iβve used Burns Night as an excuse for a drink or two β and, well, maybe one of the below will inspire you a little, whether youβre the kind of drinker who wonβt let anything but a single malt pass their lips or someone who considers all things whisk(e)y akin to sipping light fluid. It is not, of course, a comprehensive guide because we donβt have a budget of millions or the 18+ years of daily drinking that would require.
Letβs start in Scotland, however, with the Balblair 12. Itβs the oldest distillery in the Highlands but, oddly, remains lesser known. Things get a little more complex as you go up the age range β the 25-year-old is *chefβs kiss* β but the 12 is a cracking βtraining whiskyβ. They promise spice and orange and honey sweetness and thatβs pretty much what you get, a very approachable drop and, at around Β£40, extremely good value for money.
Continuing the Scotland (and Highland) theme, Loch Lomond also offers a 12-year-old as their entry-level dram. Reviews on the internet are enormously varied for this, suggesting either a lack of quality control on the distilleryβs part or, well, itβs just whisky because few drinks can split a room like a whisky can.
Aged in three varieties of American Oak, the label promises the contents are βperfectly balancedβ and, in my opinion at least, thatβs not far off the mark. I didnβt get the promised peach but found a hint of fruit, vanilla notes and a good level of smoke to finish: not too harsh, not too fleeting either. Again, for the money β expect to pay around Β£40, Β£45 β thereβs much to recommend this one.
Wandering to Campbeltown now, and the Mull of Kintyreβs Glen Scotia Distillery. The Cask Strength is not for the faint-hearted (more for the faint-hearted because ha, whisky puns, never apologise never explain). Coming in at a hefty 54.2% this is perhaps where you break the old Scottish clichΓ© about grudgingly allowing you to put a drop or two of water in your glass and just dilute to taste. I can see some of you shudder from here. You drink it how you want, Iβll drink it how I want β my palate, my rules, as an expert β, although this could be a good time to pass on a little tip the former distiller at Laphroaig, gave me.
Donβt add water but do hold a sip of water in your mouth and taste your whisky through it. It will open up all the flavours, soften the overall taste and coat the mouth without diluting whatβs in your glass. Itβs a useful trick whatever your knowledge. Anyway, this bottle promises sweetness, fruit and oak, and delivers it in spades, with some underlying dark fruit, smoke and chocolate. One for the slightly more experienced, Iβd say; an expert.
James Eadie isnβt a name Iβd come across before but itβs an interesting tale. Eadie (1827-1904) was a self-made man, one of 14 children, who started work at 14 and established a major brewery before he was 30. The family also had a recipe for a blended whisky which was available in Eadieβs pubs β which numbered some 300. These days, the company focuses on the best Scottish whiskies, specialising in cask finish, single cask and small batch releases.
From the Small Batch range, I tried the Linkwood 10-year-old single malt and, when they say small batch, they mean small batch: the release comes from three casks, the numbers of which appear on the label. They describe it as characterful, Iβd describe it as spicy, fruity, nutty and a little oily which, in this instance, isnβt the insult you might perceive but, instead, means those flavours β particularly the spice β linger long on the palate. This particular release is an exclusive for Naked Winesβ βAngelβ members.
Veering massively south now toβ¦ well, the Lake District, and the appropriately named Lakes Distillery. Somewhat inevitably, whisky is being made all around the globe now and, in the case of the Japanese, to quite exceptional levels. If you tried early versions of things like Penderyn or The English Whisky Co., youβd be forgiven for writing them off as wannabes but, as it happens, theyβve got better and better. In the case of The Lakes Distillery, their Whiskymakerβs Reserve No. 4 was named βThe Worldβs Best Single Malt Whiskyβ by the World Whiskies Awards 2022.
The latest release β as youβve probably guessed, The Whiskymakerβs Reserve No. 5 β may not cause lightning to strike twice but it IS a cracker. Matured in Oloroso, PX and red wine casks, itβs a beautiful rich amber colour and delivers all the promised flavours β coffee, tropical fruit, nuts β and aromas β oak, chocolate, dried fruit β in droves. Itβs a huge, wonderfully decadent whisky which, for Β£70, must be making a few distillers further north rather nervous.
Also from the Lakes comes The One, the not-terribly-modestly named blend, so itβs probably time for THAT debate. I understand the purity of the single malt debate and, for the most part, agree that theyβre more characterful. But, as with every drink out there, the only question that matters is βDo you like it?β
And, given that blends have been blended to be delicious β according to at least the makerβs palate β even at their dullest, theyβre perfectly drinkable (or, at least, good for mixing if you donβt want to make a cocktail with your rarest bottles). The One (c. Β£40) is one of the better blends Iβve tried: itβs smooth, has a good lingering finish and, on its way, delivers fruit, sweetness, caramel and vanilla.
Continuing the blend theme, Berry Bros & Rudd β they of Royal Warrant and wine fame β have put their name to a range of blends under βThe Classic Rangeβ banner, and I tried two of them: a peated, cask matured, clear golden spirit; and a sherry cask matured deep amber version. And, well, they do exactly what they say on the box and bottle.
The sherry edged it for me but then I probably lean to such things these days and this delivers all the rich fruit/prune/ toffee youβd expect. The peat, despite looking more like a white wine than a whisky, packs a punch that defies its appearance and both, like BBRβs own-label champagnes and Good Ordinary Claret etc., defy their c. Β£35 price tags. Worth considering as βtrainingβ drinks, whisky virginsβ¦
Letβs head west and add an βeβ with the ever-dependable Bushmills.Β Their widely available blends never disappoint. Flavour profiles are textbook, smoothness is a given, and the value is excellent, which may be the reason they can be found on many a back bar.
Their single malt range, however, is a new one for me, probably because Iβd just assumed, given the ubiquitous nature of Original and Black Bush, that they didnβt push that particular envelope. But they do and, somewhat predictably, theyβre decidedly drinkable. Or, at least, the 16-year-old one was (so much so, in fact, that I may have to have a word with Whisky Santa about the 21-year-old).
Itβs port-pipe finished (plus bourbon, plus sherry) which gives it great depths of fruit and spice, and the finish β for me β was that pure honey sweetness I often associate with Irish whiskies. Itβs possibly more suited to Christmas pudding than haggis, however.
And finally, back up to Scotland and Glen Marnochβ¦ Which you wonβt find on a map but will find on the shelves at Aldi. On Aldiβs atlas, Glen Marnoch spans Islay, Highland and Speyside so itβs probably just as well itβs a fictitious, Scottish-sounding marketing thing.
The key point here is that the whiskies, all single malts, retail at Β£16.99 a bottle. Yes. Β£16.99. Not a typo. Genuinely a penny under Β£17. Itβs almost churlish then to write a review because theyβre effectively in a budget field of their own (or, at most, with other Aldi brands and whatever Lidl are offering).
They pretty much deliver what youβd expect β Speyside has that sherry, fruity quality, Islay packs that peaty, smoky punch and Highland gives you a little of the expected wood, fruit and spice. Yes, they lack a certain depth but, given you could buy all of these for the cost of one βaveragelyβ priced single malt, itβs hard to grumble. They are, perhaps, better suited to cocktails than solo appreciation, but thatβs not a complaint.